Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and tourists alike praising its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
